A new Covino carries on family tradition
36-year-old puts roots, experience to the test with his own restaurant
BY JENNIFER AMATO
Staff Writer

JENNIFER AMATO Covino's Ristorante, on Route 130 North, in North Brunswick, carries the tradition of the Covino family name and classic Italian dishes in an elegant atmosphere.

NORTH BRUNSWICK - A 10-year-old is sitting with his parents in a restaurant called Wally's & Joseph's in the theater district of New York City. A huge Italian waiter, described as "Lurch," descends upon the table and speaks to the boy. The two go into the kitchen, where there is a lobster tank, requiring a two-step stool in order to reach the top. The waiter reaches in and grabs a 3-pound lobster from the water. He gives it to the boy, who grasps it by the claws and brings it out to his parents in the dining area.

This is how restaurateur Craig Covino's fascination with the restaurant industry began over 25 years ago.

Covino, 36, a resident of North Brunswick, was "hooked from that point on." He has now opened his own restaurant, Covino's, on Route 130 in the former location of La Bella Dona. Originally acquired on Sept. 20, the restaurant name was officially changed to carry his surname on March 1.

Covino was inspired by his grandfather Alphonso, who opened up the original Covino's on Route 27 in South Brunswick with his brothers Jimmy and Charlie, and operated the restaurant from 1969 to 1987. Jimmy and Charlie had worked at Vail's Kitchen in Edison before moving to their own restaurant.

"In honor of the three C's, I bring the name back. Nostalgia," Covino said. "My family has lived in North Brunswick, I've lived in North Brunswick. I think this is where the name is most popular."

The classic Italian restaurant will feature recipes from the old establishment as well as new ones collected over the years from Covino's past experiences at the Raritan River Club and Panico's in New Brunswick, McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant in Seattle, Il Giardino in South Brunswick and the Princeton Marriott.

The typical meat entrees, ranging in price from $13.95 to $25.95, come complete with a mixed vegetable and salad or pasta and include chicken Siciliano, francese, piccata, parmigiana or sorrentino; shrimp scampi, fra diavolo or barese; filet of sole; stuffed calamari or lobster tail; veal alla casa, pizzaiola or marsala; and sirloin steak or steak pizzaiola. Vegetarian dishes include ravioli, eggplant parmigiana, capellini primavera, fettuccini boscaiolo and rigatoni alla vodka.

Specialties include veal chops; rosemary veal bracciole; pignoli crusted sea bass in a lemon garlic and oil sauce with broccoli rabe; salmon stuffed with lump crab meat and pesto sauce; chicken with arrugula, eggplant, roasted peppers, fresh mozzarella and a balsamic drizzle, named after Covino's 11-month-old daughter Sophia; and parmesan bread-crumb-stuffed artichokes.

The specials change daily, with lunch having a shorter option list than dinner. There is no pizza on the menu, but with the recent addition of panini sandwiches, Covino is hoping to make flatbread pizza.

For dessert, there is a homemade bread pudding banana split, featuring bread from Scala's Bakery in North Brunswick. There are also homemade Bailey's cheesecake, ricotta cheesecake and deep fried cheesecake. Frozen options include pecan ice cream pie, Reese's peanut butter pie or Kahlua ice cream pie.

Beverages include flavored cappuccino and espresso.

To keep with an old-fashioned, family-style meal, Covino himself will try new recipes in the kitchen and serve food to his patrons. He has been known to ask diners who have not finished their plates what he can do to improve his meals.

"I think we are more hands-on, more caring and pay more attention to detail," he said.

Covino's will cater to any dietary need. Already, the owner has accommodated Southeast Asian requirements of a lot of spice without a lot of garlic, cheese or onions. Whole wheat pasta will be available in the future. Although no children's menu exists, chicken fingers, French fries and plain pasta are available.

"With advance notice we're happy to do anything," he said.

The hours of operation are noon to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, noon to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday. The restaurant is closed to the public on Saturday and Sunday afternoons in order to host private parties for up to 100.

Off-site catering is also available for an "infinite" number of people, according to Covino. He said that from his prior contacts he has access to professional managers, bartenders and wait staff, and has his own personal experience with his background in hotel service and event planning.

Reservations are accepted but not required, and the dress code is "smart casual." Alcohol is "bring your own."

"Family is my support. Without support, you have no guidance. Without guidance, you have no direction, and without support, you can't stay focused," he said.

Covino's Ristorante is located at 2188 Route 130 north. For more information, call (732) 398-9218 or visit www.covinos.net.